Stuck at the Botswanan border

After exiting Zambia, we waited in line behind a few vehicles and lots of trucks to cross a water ferry to Botswana. Initially, I wasn't afraid of the ferry sinking or anything going awry because I saw the ferry to back and forth lots of times while we waited for an exit visa for our vehicle. But, when we were next in line, I saw the way the ferry operated and became slightly concerned. The big metal ferry (with no real workers on it, just a bunch of guys on either bank of the river who pushed people on and pulled them off) kind of slid into the dirt/gravel bank. There were no ropes, docks or anything to secure the ferry to land except the sheer force of the boat slamming into the bank. Right when the ferry reached land, Zambian men started yelling to the drivers- 'two cars at a time', so Frank pulled the car on after a big truck carrying bananas, pumpkin and mango. We had to jump out of the car (I don't know why, but it also made me a little concerned). Then, I assume since everything looked okay to them, the guys told us we could run on, too. So we got on along with about as many Zambian (or Botswanan) pedestrians that could fit and we took off for the other bank. Without a hitch, we landed on the opposite bank with a metallic screetching sound as the bottom of the ferry scraped the gravel. So although it seemed like a crude way to do things, sliding this boat up and off the banks, it works.

Once we landed, we headed to customs and immigration only to find that our vehicle was not authorized to enter the country. Apparently they needed Frank's registration which he was forced to leave in Malawi since the car was being de-registered in Malawi. But, according to the Botswanan customs people, Frank could have stolen the car and be trying to sell it or all its parts, in their law-abiding country. Frank tried to argue and haggle (but at this point we didnt really have any money...especially cash, and it's not like the customs office has a credit card machine). The customs people then 'recommended' that Frank talk to an agent who was conveniently waiting outside the office. Nancy told me that at a lot of borders (esp in Zimbabwe), the immigration workers' relatives or brother-in-laws make money by acting as agents that can be paid to get people through borders. I'm not saying that Botswana is corrupt-or even that this border post had corrupt workers-but it seemed suspicious. The agent told Frank that we would have to wait 3 days and pay $35,000. Frank smiled and walked away. Ultimately, Frank left the office on foot and entered Botswana where he found a taxi, hired another agent, called his customs agent in malawi, faxed some stuff, made some calls, and met up with another agent back at the botswana border post.

Finally, after almost 5 hours, we got through the border! (only to find that diesel fuel can only be purchased at the border of Botswana, so we had to return for fuel that night) We checked into Chobe Safari Lodge for the night which was so cool. Baboons and warthogs were hanging out all around the cute hut apartments/rooms and the plants and trees and lake was really pretty. And for dinner, we ate at the Chobe restaurant and I ate crocodile tail!! It was good, tasted like tilapia. I also tried kudu, which was like venison, but preferred the croc tail.